Taisei

Taisei’s pork-back-fat soy ramen balances the richness of the fat with the savoury depth of soy sauce. The seasoned-egg version is listed as a popular choice, and diners have said that the interplay between the two flavours stood out. One reviewer found that the soft-centred egg, bean sprouts and spring onions added variety to the broth and went well with the noodles. Another, writing about a different bowl of soy ramen, recalled the broth’s charred spring onion and the bite of its thin noodles. Soy ramen is the starting point, with the option of adding a seasoned egg to suit your taste.

For noodles without broth, there is Taiwan mazesoba. Once the noodles are gone, diners are encouraged to mix rice into the remaining minced meat; the extra rice is free. Options include a spicy, numbing version and a curry version, though the latter cannot be ordered in a large size. If you want to keep enjoying the bowl after the noodles, this makes for a satisfying finish. You can also order aedama—seasoned extra noodles—alongside ramen. It is not available on its own: the menu suggests adding it to the remaining broth, eating it as it is or using it like dipping noodles. One diner who ordered it with soy ramen tried some plain first, then added the rest to the broth.

Boiled dumplings make a good accompaniment between mouthfuls of noodles. The assorted selection comes with plain, cheese, shiso and curry fillings, in wrappers from Asakusa Kaikaro; the filling is house-made. House-made almond tofu is available for dessert, and the menu also lists beer and highballs. Whether you are stopping in for a bowl at lunch or adding dumplings and a drink to dinner, there are options to suit your appetite and mood.